The Ice-Hook was designed for protection in less than perfect ice and ‘mixed' situations. In some cases, the integrity of the hook shape can provide holding power in ice that does not accept normal screw placements, such as hollow ice. It can also be used in normal ice. Although it can be driven into relatively shallow ice situations, such as over the lips of pockets, and into ice on top of bulges, it is not designed as thin ice protection per se. It is useful for driving into frozen dirt or moss and ice-filled cracks. It can be pounded into cracks like a piton or placed behind flakes. It is often useful for placement in cracks like a nut. These features make it a serious tool for mixed climbing.

The shape of the tip is one of negative clearance. This allows it to be driven straight into hard ice with a minimum of "diving" and "walking" as often occurs with other ice hooks. Tests have shown that hooks with negative clearance drive better than those with positive clearance. Positive clearance picks are great for ice tools, but such a design does not function as well in a drive-in application. The thin blade and its mild curvature minimize shattering. The 2 small teeth on the stem are for stability and for preventing accidental dislodging before a fall. Related to this and the inherent problem of hooks "levering" out of the ice when loaded, the Ushba Ice Hook design was further refined by eliminating the lower teeth on the stem (at and below the carabiner clip-in hole). This refinement, plus the Ice Hook's stem-to-pick angle and radius, reduces levering.

The hook is best used with a normal quickdraw in the carabiner hole*. The top hole is for racking and carrying. The shoulder, midway down the stem, is to provide a pounding surface for upward tapping in removal making the hook is easy to remove. *The Ice-Hook is also available with a sewn waterproof 5" Spectra sling.

The titanium material from which the hook is machined is very strong and much lighter than steel, thus making the Ice-Hook an excellent choice to carry on long alpine and mixed routes. Also, this Ti alloy exhibits durability and hardness characteristics which are comparable to steel.

The hook is best placed in holes left from deep pick placements. Do not chop a hole to start the hook as you would with an ice screw placement. Rather, swing the pick of your tool into one spot until it is buried deeply. Then, set the hook in the resulting hole and place it with a series of moderate taps. Heavy pounding tends to interfere with good, clean placement. In order to dampen vibrations, hold the hook with your free hand, if possible, while pounding.

It is important to note that ice hooks can and do hold some falls, however good judgment must always be used when evaluating the reliability of a hook placement. Obviously the hook, like any other tool, has its limitations (particularly since it was designed to help provide protection in less-than-perfect ice). It must be the responsibility of the climber to understand these limitations, and to know the proper time to use a hook.