1.) "Drill it" First, make sure you've got solid rock. If you don't, then all's for naught. Do it right from the start. The standard Tortuga's are 10mm in diameter, so use a 7/16ths (or 11mm) bit. We recommend the Hilti TECX bits because you'll get more mileage for your money, however any rock-cutting bit will do. Drill the hole to fit the length of the shaft (standard length is 80mm). Too deep, glue is wasted (expensive); too shallow, the eye will protrude from the rock.

2.) "Clean it" Blow the hole out with a 'blow bulb' (see photo). Don't use a blow tube powered by your own hot breath; it creates humidity and condensation down the hole--- keep it dry. Brush the hole with a wire brush, using a few strokes, then blow it clean again and repeat the process a couple of times. Get it clean of dust and detritus.

3.) "Glue it" Use the Hilti HIT C-100 glue system for fixing the Tortuga's into place. It's the best available because its water insoluble, sets up extremely hard, has a short gel and cure time, and has been field-proven. If you're using the Hilti glue, you need a Hilti glue gun made specifically for C-100. If you use the 7.5 Oz tubes, less than one full trigger-pull of glue is sufficient for each hole if you are working efficiently. You can expect between 15 and 20 holes/glue pack.

4.) "Bolt it" Push the Tortuga gently into the hole, slowly rotating the bolt as it progresses into the hole. When near the bottom of the hole, clean excess glue that should be regurgitating out. Orient the eye downwards. Clean the excess glue and wipe it into a rag, sculpt the glue around the hole for a nice fluid appearance and by this time, you will probably feel the glue just beginning to gel. If the bolt doesn't move (be gentle!), go on to your next hole. If the placement is on an overhanging surface, hold for about one minute or until you are sure the glue has begun to set.

Ushba Mountain Works gratefully acknowledges the hard work, research, expert opinions, and contributions of John Byrnes, Skip Harper, Sam Lightener Jr., and Mike Shelton. Numerous other individuals such as Eric Hirst, Marty Karabin, and Josh Blumenthal also contributed.

Stress Corrosion Cracking (aka "SCC" ), by Skip Harper

HERE'S WHAT STRESS CORROSION CRACKING
CAN DO TO YOUR NUTS !! -------->

WELL … maybe not your own, but definitely stainless-steel nuts and other bolting hardware used by climbers in marine environments such as in sea cliff climbing. This particular nut was in place on a route on Cayman Brac for just four years. A little rust was apparent on the surface, but otherwise, it looked intact. A socket-end wrench was used to remove it. As soon as slight pressure was put on the nut, a grinding/crunching noise was heard. The nut was taken out of the wrench and this is what it looked like. Almost no pressure was put on the nut, no hammering or forcing was used; it simply fell apart. That's what happens with SCC!! Imagine relying on this nut to hold a fall! And it happens much more often to bolts and hangers than to the nuts. One big problem is they look perfectly good on the surface - very misleading!

Stress corrosion cracking is generally defined as "the combined action of static stress and corrosion which leads to cracking or embrittlement of a metal." Of the four general types of stainless steels, only the ferritics do not appear to be susceptible to SCC. Unfortunately, most climbing hardware is made from types that are susceptible to the SCC process. Combining the aqueous environment, the constant presence of the choride atom found in sea spray (and/or condensation, etc.) and a two-part bolted placement that creates its own locked in stresses, optimal conditions for SCC are bound to occur. Evidence now indicates SCC is occuring in every sea cliff and marine related climbing area investigated to date.

Some evidence of Stress Corrosion Cracking ( SCC ) Photos by Skip Harper

Here's some shots of one placement being removed from a route called Porpoise Christy, an 11b direct start to No Problem Mon on the North East Point of Cayman Brac. This was part of an effort to completely rebolt all routes on the island due to discovery of rampant SCC. Presently (Nov. '00), all placements are being rebolted with the Ushba Tortuga bolts, a titanium glue-in application that will relieve dangerous conditions found there.

1.) The original placement (stainless steel, 4 years of service) is seen on the lower left and the Tortuga has been installed (upper right). While some discoloration is seen on the original placement, it still has the appearance of being intact and functional. One telltale sign of SCC, while remaining unconfirmed, seems to be the deep purple discoloration as seen on the stud head.

2.) The stud of the original placement is seen following removal of the nut and hanger. Sometimes the stud would remain intact, sometimes not. However, there was usually considerable discoloration and some metal decomposition present.

3.) This particular stud came off with one light tap from a hammer; it simply fell off along with some wafer-thin rock chips immediately surrounding the hole.

4.) A closer view of the fractured end of the stud indicates deep rips and tears in the metal surface. These are angular and have the appearance of considerable stress being applied, however it was SCC. As before, a very light hammer tap was enough to snap this stud, a bolt with an original shear-rating of nearly 7,000 pounds!!

5.) A higher mag view of the damaged stud-end clearly indicating a highly fractured interface and corrosive activity of long duration. Imagine relying on something like this to hold a critical fall !!!

AND SO . . . .

Replacing old decomposing hangers/bolts with Ushba Tortuga's has returned Cayman Brac to high safety status. Once again we can climb the great routes on the sea cliffs of Cayman Brac like Blackbeard's Revenge and Throwin' the Tortuga with confidence.

Photographer: Skip Harper Climber: John Byrnes

"Keep out of reach of children; not for internal use…"